Relaxed shirt builder

Step 1 · Measurements

Enter body measurements and shirt construction choices

All values are centimetres. Circumference fields are body measurements before ease. Size buttons are starting values, not sizing guarantees.

Choose a construction direction

Classic relaxed

Balanced room for a light woven shirt

Overshirt

More room for layering and firmer cloth

Longline

Longer body with more lower sweep

Choose a body-measurement starting point

XS S M L XL

Chest circumference

Horizontal body measure at the fullest chest.

Hip circumference

Use the level reached by the planned shirt hem.

Shirt length

From high shoulder/neck level to the straight hem.

One shoulder length

Neck base to shoulder point; not full back width.

Armhole depth

Vertical back neck level to underarm level.

Sleeve length including cuff

From armhole seam at shoulder to wrist; the finished cuff height is deducted from the sleeve piece.

Bicep circumference

Around the fullest upper arm before ease.

Wrist circumference

Where the finished cuff will sit.

Ease, neckline, collar, cuff, and allowances

Finished chest ease

Added to the full chest circumference.

Finished hem ease

Added to the full hip-level circumference.

Finished bicep ease

Added before the sleeve cap is solved.

Full neckline width

Controls the width of the generated neck opening.

Front neck drop

Vertical depth at centre front.

Back neck drop

Vertical depth at centre back.

Finished front-placket width

Each separate placket folds around this width.

Sleeve-opening length

Marks the opening; separate tower-placket piece is not included.

Finished cuff height

The piece is doubled across its fold.

Cuff ease

Added to wrist before the button overlap.

Cuff and stand overlap

Extension for button and buttonhole beyond attachment.

Sleeve pleat intake

Extra sleeve-hem width folded out before attaching cuff.

Finished collar-stand height

Vertical stand height before seam allowance.

Collar depth

Centre depth from stand seam to outer edge.

Collar-point extension

Adds projection at each collar end.

Seam allowance

Dashed cutting distance around sewn edges.

Body hem allowance

Depth reserved below the straight hem fold.

Back to overview

Relaxed button-front shirt

How the important inputs are used

Body first. Chest, hips, shoulder, armhole depth, and length create the front and back.

Interfaces second. The sleeve, stand, collar, placket, and cuff take dimensions from the lines they must join.

Allowance last. Solid sewing lines stay measurable while dashed cutting lines add seam and hem allowance.

Before generating

How these inputs affect this pattern

Use the notes below to understand which measurements shape the draft, which options change construction, and what should be measured again when values conflict. Presets are starting points; the submitted values drive the result.

Body ease

Choose ease for woven cloth

Body ease is added to the chest circumference and hem ease to the hip circumference. A crisp poplin overshirt may need more room than a soft viscose shirt. Compare finished circumferences with a woven shirt you can move in; do not borrow knit T-shirt ease.

Armhole

The sleeve is solved after the body

Front and back armhole curves are measured along their solid sewing lines. The cap height is then solved until the complete sleeve-cap curve matches that target. Bicep ease still controls sleeve width, so extreme combinations should be rejected on the toile even when seam lengths agree.

Neck

Collar dimensions come from the neckline

Neckline width and front and back drops shape the body opening. Only after those curves exist does the generator calculate the stand attachment. The collar uses the stand's collar seam. The button overlap belongs beyond the attachment segment and is marked separately.

How the calculations work Seam and hem allowance guide