Sewing pattern guide

Seam and hem allowances

Generated patterns show both the construction line and the cutting line. Understanding the difference helps you print, cut, and test the draft correctly.

Solid line

Garment or seam line

The solid outline is the shape that should sew together: side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, crotch seams, waistlines, and other construction edges.

Dashed line

Cutting line with allowance

The dashed outline sits outside the solid line and shows where to cut after adding seam or hem allowance.

Seams

Construction seam allowance

Most regular seams use a smaller allowance, commonly around 1 cm, unless the pattern settings specify another value.

Hems

Hem allowance

Lower edges often need more allowance than seams. Pants and shorts may use a 2.5-3 cm hem so the edge can be folded and finished cleanly.

Curves

Allowance around curves

On armholes, necklines, crotch curves, and other curved edges, the dashed line must preserve a consistent offset from the original curve.

Corners

Corners and transitions

Where two seams meet, allowances must transition clearly so the cutting line does not hide under the garment line or create an accidental wedge.

Generated allowance is still a setting to verify

Allowance values are calculated from the options you choose, but sewing method, fabric thickness, finishing technique, and personal workflow can require changes before production.